VERY IMPORTANT - PLEASE READ!!!!!!!
Our equipment was originally designed for welded on slats & paint. Rubber skins are
heavy - approximately 1 pound per square foot. This adds 12 pounds per dog walk ramp
& 27 pounds per a-frame ramp. Even though rubber skins add weight to equipment the
safety it provides for our dogs is worth it!
YOU MUST NEVER leave dog walk in moving position - see picture above!!! The dog walk
was not originally designed to be stored in moving position. To do so with the additional
weight of rubber skins makes it very dangerous for people & dogs!!! PLEASE use
common sense, and only use moving position for moving the dog walk!!!!
YOU MUST always have chains attached to a-frame at all times!!! A-frames are sold
with 8 clips - 4 to leave attached at all times, and 4 others to use for a-frame height
changes. The addition of rubber skins make each a-frame ramp weight approximately
100 pounds (depending on thickness of rubber). PLEASE use common sense!!!
Do we install rubber skins?
Only very occasionally. We do not have an indoor climate controlled work area so we
can only make/install skins when the weather is warm in Maine (approximately April to
Oct). This makes the wait for equipment MUCH LONGER. Also, since we work out of a
garage we can only weld or make rubber skins - cannot do both in same area! So it
greatly slows down production of equipment. It is much more cost effective for you to
install your own rubber skins.
Important info on installing rubber skins on equipment with slats
Our equipment is 100% welded aluminum - frame, sheathing & slats. DO NOT remove
sheathing or slats - it WILL negatively effect the stability of your equipment! Your only
option is to retrofit the rubber skins per directions in Darlene Woz's book "Rubber on
the Run". To retrofit rubber skins properly you must follow all the directions in Darlene
Woz's book "Rubber on the Run". The book, pre-made rubber skins or kits can be
purchased from www.rubberontherun.com.
We DO NOT recommend removing the slats on your equipment. The slats cannot be
removed they are welded on. You have to leave the slats in place & retrofit the rubber
skins per directions in Darlene Woz's book "Rubber on the Run". To retrofit the rubber
skins you would have to buy (or make) skins without slats, cut them to fit around the
welded on slats. Make sure to measure EVERY space between slats because they can
very in size - your equipment was built by hand not a factory! Glue those on between the
slats.
Then you have to make your own slats. You mix the rubber with binder & acetone, then
form slats on top of the existing slats & onto the pieces of rubber skins that you have
already glued between the slats. As the mixture drys it binds to the top of the slat & the
glued on pieces of rubber skin between the slats forming 1 continuous rubber skin.
Since you are going to have to make slats anyways you probably should make the skins
yourself too - you will save lots of $$$.
Whether buying the kit or pre-made you have to remember the shipping cost is $$$.
This is because rubber skins (pre-made or kit) are very heavy. It does take time & the
purchase of extra items to make your own rubber skins, but over all it is the cheapest
way to do it. It is also the best way to control the quality in which they are made. Some
people like them thin & smoother, while others like them thinker & with more texture.
Not sure if this blog has info on retrofitting, but has lots info on kits vs pre-made skin
cost, making & gluing on skins.
http://blog.agilepooch.com/category/dog-agility/rubberized-contacts/ .
Our equipment was originally designed for welded on slats & paint. Rubber skins are
heavy - approximately 1 pound per square foot. This adds 12 pounds per dog walk ramp
& 27 pounds per a-frame ramp. Even though rubber skins add weight to equipment the
safety it provides for our dogs is worth it!
YOU MUST NEVER leave dog walk in moving position - see picture above!!! The dog walk
was not originally designed to be stored in moving position. To do so with the additional
weight of rubber skins makes it very dangerous for people & dogs!!! PLEASE use
common sense, and only use moving position for moving the dog walk!!!!
YOU MUST always have chains attached to a-frame at all times!!! A-frames are sold
with 8 clips - 4 to leave attached at all times, and 4 others to use for a-frame height
changes. The addition of rubber skins make each a-frame ramp weight approximately
100 pounds (depending on thickness of rubber). PLEASE use common sense!!!
Do we install rubber skins?
Only very occasionally. We do not have an indoor climate controlled work area so we
can only make/install skins when the weather is warm in Maine (approximately April to
Oct). This makes the wait for equipment MUCH LONGER. Also, since we work out of a
garage we can only weld or make rubber skins - cannot do both in same area! So it
greatly slows down production of equipment. It is much more cost effective for you to
install your own rubber skins.
Important info on installing rubber skins on equipment with slats
Our equipment is 100% welded aluminum - frame, sheathing & slats. DO NOT remove
sheathing or slats - it WILL negatively effect the stability of your equipment! Your only
option is to retrofit the rubber skins per directions in Darlene Woz's book "Rubber on
the Run". To retrofit rubber skins properly you must follow all the directions in Darlene
Woz's book "Rubber on the Run". The book, pre-made rubber skins or kits can be
purchased from www.rubberontherun.com.
We DO NOT recommend removing the slats on your equipment. The slats cannot be
removed they are welded on. You have to leave the slats in place & retrofit the rubber
skins per directions in Darlene Woz's book "Rubber on the Run". To retrofit the rubber
skins you would have to buy (or make) skins without slats, cut them to fit around the
welded on slats. Make sure to measure EVERY space between slats because they can
very in size - your equipment was built by hand not a factory! Glue those on between the
slats.
Then you have to make your own slats. You mix the rubber with binder & acetone, then
form slats on top of the existing slats & onto the pieces of rubber skins that you have
already glued between the slats. As the mixture drys it binds to the top of the slat & the
glued on pieces of rubber skin between the slats forming 1 continuous rubber skin.
Since you are going to have to make slats anyways you probably should make the skins
yourself too - you will save lots of $$$.
Whether buying the kit or pre-made you have to remember the shipping cost is $$$.
This is because rubber skins (pre-made or kit) are very heavy. It does take time & the
purchase of extra items to make your own rubber skins, but over all it is the cheapest
way to do it. It is also the best way to control the quality in which they are made. Some
people like them thin & smoother, while others like them thinker & with more texture.
Not sure if this blog has info on retrofitting, but has lots info on kits vs pre-made skin
cost, making & gluing on skins.
http://blog.agilepooch.com/category/dog-agility/rubberized-contacts/ .
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